The Secluded Monhegan Island Off the Coast of Maine Is One of the State’s Best-kept Secrets

It’s my birthday, and just like last year and the years before that, I’m on an 80-year-old ferry making my way to a remote island 10 miles off the coast of Maine called Monhegan. It’s July, and we’re being followed by a small group of porpoises, pointed out to us by the captain over the loudspeaker. Only 20 minutes into our sea journey and the problems of the mainland are already beginning to fade away. Getting to Monhegan on my birthday is an annual tradition that welcomes the serenity of this isolated place, its ancient rocky cliffs, and sweet smelling wildflowers, allowing me to reflect on the year gone by.

Monhegan is not your usual birthday destination. The small island in Muscongus Bay is about a square mile in area and accessible only by boat — in my case, the 80-year-old Laura B on the Monhegan Boat Line leaving from Port Clyde, about 1.5 hours north of Portland. The island has a population of 119, many of whom escape for the winter. From May to October, Monhegan comes alive with locals and visitors looking to breathe in the charm and crisp coastal air, exploring the art galleries, hiking trails, and beaches of what still feels like a secret getaway. Oh, and no cars are allowed.

Since the 1800s, Monhegan has been an art haven, welcoming artists like Rockwell Kent, Aaron Draper Shattuck, and Andrew and Jamie Wyeth, among others, as well as investing in newcomers with artist residency programs. The island is flooded with art — the dusty flower-lined walking trails wind by the aptly named Lupine Gallery, which hosts work from more than 45 artists, and the Monhegan Museum of Art & History.

It’s easy to see why artists gather inspiration from the island’s breathtaking scenery. Monhegan’s 12 miles of well-maintained hiking trails meander through shady old-growth forests, by the eternally still Ice Pond, up to the 174-year-old Monhegan Lighthouse, and past the rusty hull of the D.T. Sheridan shipwreck at Lobster Cove. Every turn yields spots of lupines, coneflowers, hawkweeds, black-eyed Susans, and buttonbush. Hot days pull kayakers and swimmers toward the chilly waters of Fish Beach, laden with colorful sea glass and shells brought in and out by the measured tides.

By golden hour, my fiancé and I take our backpacks, stuffed with ice packs, pasta salad, pickles, potato chips, and half a bottle of Champagne, and make the 40-minute, 1.5-mile trek up Whitehead Trail, pointing out mushrooms growing on the forest floor. We reach the top of the cliff and set out our picnic, pouring Champagne into camping mugs. We watch the sun start to set, spying seals fishing off the coast below. I close my eyes and breathe it in — the auspicious start to the next year of my life.

Related: I’ve Lived in Maine My Whole Life — and These Are My Favorite Hidden Gems in the State

Where to Go Hiking

Monhegan’s 12 miles of hiking trails offer diverse terrain for all levels. About 350 acres of the island are conservation land, thanks to the quick thinking of Thomas Edison’s son, Ted, who purchased much of the area to protect against development in the 1920s and ‘30s. Purchase a $1 trail map from your ferry service in case you find yourself yearning for exploration.

Whitehead Trail

The can’t-miss Whitehead Trail starts at the western edge and moves across the island through town, woods, and up to the top of the cliffs, overlooking the rugged coast. Bring your New England mushroom identification guide for the forest section and some snacks for when you reach the summit.

Cliff Trail

The challenging Cliff Trail showcases the different personalities of Monhegan’s wild coastline. Taking travelers around the entire island, the trail’s steep and rocky terrain boasts incredible views of the Atlantic, local harbor seals at Pebble Beach, loons, cormorants, and seagulls, plus it ends with a cold one at Monhegan Brewing Company.

Lobster Cove Trail

History buffs move along the Lobster Cove Trail toward the D.T. Sheridan shipwreck, witnessing the rusted hull of the tugboat run aground in 1948 as a result of the distinctively thick Maine fog. Take your camera and watch out for poison ivy nearby.

Where to Explore the Art

Lupine Gallery

Immerse yourself in Monhegan’s deep history and culture of art with a visit to the Lupine Gallery on the main village road, home to more than 45 artists, many of whom lived on the island and depicted its surroundings. The gallery showcases paintings and sculptures of Maine’s rocky coast, peaceful meadows, bright wildflowers, and native fauna.

Edison Studio

Founded by Ted Edison’s wife, Anne, Edison Studio on Lighthouse Hill features collections like “Women Artists of Monhegan Island,” which displays paintings, pottery, jewelry, and sculpture from local makers.

Monhegan Museum of Art & History

The Monhegan Museum of Art & History focuses on art made on or about the island, and features pieces from Rockwell Kent, Aaron Draper Shattuck, Wilson Irvine, Andrew Wyeth, Maud Briggs Knowlton, Alice Kent Stoddard, and other inspiring creatives.

Where to Eat and Drink

Monhegan’s food scene is small but mighty, focusing on the local maritime cuisine. There are plenty of opportunities for visitors to try specialties like lobster rolls, locally roasted coffee, and even beers brewed right on the island.

Monhegan Coffee Roasters

Take a load off from your hike and stop in Monhegan Coffee Roasters for a cappuccino made from beans roasted on the island. This little cafe offers shelter from the sun, excellent espresso beverages, teas, and even bagels and pastries to bring you back to life on a hot day.

Monhegan Brewing Company

The atmosphere on Monhegan Brewing Company’s outdoor patio is always lively. Tables are packed with Kölsch, ales, IPAs, and stouts, plus piled high with baskets of fried haddock, scallops, and french fries from the on-site food truck.

The Fish House

Lobster rolls, crab rolls, oysters, mussels, and steamed clams — The Fish House focuses on unfussy but lovingly made local seafood, served Maine style on paper plates and picnic tables overlooking the water.

Where to Stay

One of the most magical ways to take in the island’s essence is to wake up early to catch the sunrise on the water. To do that, you’ll want to spend the night at one of Monhegan’s inns. Camping is not allowed on the island.

The Island Inn

Monhegan’s largest stay, The Island Inn was originally built in 1816 and consistently upgraded, hosting 32 rooms overlooking the ocean. You won’t find TVs or high-speed Wi-Fi here; instead, each room invites guests to put aside their modern lives and get on island time. Breakfast is included; The Barnacle Cafe provides lunch sandwiches, chowders, and drinks; and the tasteful dining room serves local seafood, meat, and vegetarian dishes for dinner, paired with wines and cocktails.

Monhegan House

A working guesthouse since 1870, Monhegan House has 27 rooms with ocean and lighthouse views. Accommodations vary in size and are airy and minimalist, with comfy beds and antique furniture. A delicious three-course breakfast is included with every stay, and The Novelty store/cafe provides hikers with sandwiches, drinks, and other staple snacks and takeaways.

Shining Sails Bed & Breakfast

For those wanting a bit more space, Shining Sails provides year-round apartment rentals, including studios and single bedrooms equipped with kitchens, Wi-Fi, and private bathrooms. Travelers seeking a traditional bed-and-breakfast can grab a room and indulge in the homemade breakfast, featuring eggs laid from their own hens and fruit from their gardens.