BUTLER, Pa. — Gene Puskar has been with The Associated Press for 45 years. Based in Pittsburgh, his career has spanned a wide range of events including the nuclear accident at Three Mile Island, the Sept. 11 attack that downed Flight 93, Stanley Cups and World Series, many presidential and campaign events and, his favorite, the Little League World Series. Here’s what he had to say about making this extraordinary photo.
20 Best Things to Do in Milan, According to Locals
Italy’s fashion and design capital, Milan isn’t as in-your-face with its beauty and charm as, say, Rome, Florence, or Venice, but that doesn’t mean it has fewer things to see and do. On the contrary, there are loads of fun and exciting ways to spend time in Milan; it just takes a little more effort to find them. What Milan lacks in ancient ruins and Baroque masterpieces, it makes up for in art deco design and contemporary fashion. And as Italy’s most cosmopolitan city, it’s home to an incredible restaurant scene and a plethora of great bars.
I live in Rome, but I take every chance I can get to visit Milan — and I always find something new and exciting to do, see, eat, or drink. I’ve also watched the city’s hotel scene evolve over the years, with the arrival of luxury boutique hotels like Galleria Vik and Portrait Milano, which was featured on our 2023 It List.
“I always say that Milan is Italy’s best unkept secret — a city that’s not easy to get to know, but one that is magnificent and revelatory once you do!” gushes Jaclyn DeGiorgio, a journalist and food tour guide who has been living in Milan for a decade and hosts the podcast the Milano Files. Maria Sole Ferragamo, who hails from the Florentine fashion dynasty, also fell in love with Milan, where she established the headquarters of her jewelry business, SO-LE Studio, which recycles leather to make unique jewelry in the arcades of the Portrait Milano hotel. Read on for their expert intel on the best things to do in Milan.
Admire the Duomo.
DeGiorgio calls Milan’s show-stopping Gothic cathedral magical, saying, “the exterior constantly changes color depending on the light. It could be stark white, a warm cream, or rose gold.” While tons of people gather in front of the Duomo, you should take some time to go inside it too. “There’s so much happening inside that it can be overwhelming, so you’ll get way more out of it on a tour or with a private guide,” DeGiorgio says.
Stroll through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Right next to the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the city’s grand shopping center built in the late 1800s. With a glass ceiling, mosaics on the floors, and designer stores, it’s sometimes called the city’s parlor. “While you’re there, pop up to Marchesi 1824, which is just above the Prada menswear shop, for a caffè shakerato and one of their mini-cakes like the Marchesi Rosa, a round sponge cake with red fruit cream encased in pink icing,” DeGiorgio says, but warns, “cling tightly to your bags and wear your backpacks in front of you because it’s crawling with crafty pickpockets — you can see them in action on TikTok and Instagram.”
Taste Milanese specialties like risotto alla Milanese and mondeghili (meatballs).
“Since the new space at the Portrait opened, it has become a real routine for me to stop by to see the SO-LE STUDIO shop, located within the courtyard, and to have a meal under the beautiful porticos at the 10_11 restaurant. I recommend trying the mondeghili and their famous pasta in bianco,” says Ferragamo.
DeGiorgio recommends the cotoletta alla Milanese at Da Martino and loves Ratanà for its mix of classic and contemporary cuisine. “The menu there really encompasses the spirit of the city,” she says, adding, “There is a section of classic evergreen dishes where you’ll find the risotto alla Milanese, which is one of the best in the city, but there’s also a lot of contemporary food.”
Try creative cuisine at contemporary bistros.
Once you’ve tried the traditional dishes, expand your palette at a contemporary restaurant. “Good chefs are cooking up a new cucina Italiana that’s very innovative. Maybe they’ve worked abroad or at some of the best restaurants in the world and they come back to Milan and are trying to do something different,” DeGiorgio says. Among her favorites are Spore Ristorante, Mater, and Røst.
Gaze at Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Last Supper.”
“This is the hottest ticket in town! You really should book months in advance,” DeGiorgio says about Da Vinci’s fresco of “The Last Supper” inside the Dominican convent of Santa Maria della Grazia. Reservations are required and open quarterly, but according to DeGiorgio, you can try your luck by lining up in the morning before it opens and waiting to see if they have any cancellations.
Window shop in the Quadrilatero della Moda.
This micro-neighborhood just northeast of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is known as Milan’s designer shopping district, with stores by big-name brands like Chanel, Gucci, Prada, and Armani, among others. A personal favorite is La Double J, which sells bold, colorful, vintage-inspired caftans, dresses, accessories, and home décor by Milan-based designer J.J. Martin. DeGiorgio adds, “Make sure you drop into Nilufar Gallery to admire cutting-edge design pieces.”
Visit Villa Necchi Campiglio.
Hidden in plain sight just beyond the Quadrilatero della Moda, Villa Necchi Campiglio is a masterpiece of 1930s art deco architecture. It was also the filming location for Luca Guadagnino’s 2009 movie “I Am Love” starring Tilda Swinton. “I always say that if you do one thing in Milan, make it Villa Necchi Campiglio, a design marvel in the rationalist style by architect Piero Portaluppi,” DeGiorgio says. “The level of detail is stupendous, so to get the most out of it, join an English-speaking tour or book a private one — either way, book it in advance.”
See an exhibition at the Triennale Milano.
Located within the Parco Sempione, the Triennale Milano is the city’s design museum. Permanent exhibitions include the reconstruction of a room designed by Ettore Sottsass, founder of the Memphis Group, while rotating exhibitions might showcase the work of architects like Gae Aulenti. “Since I moved to Milan, the Triennale has become a monthly stop for me to see the new exhibitions and lose myself in the bookshop in search of new inspiration,” says Ferragamo.
Try a negroni sbagliato at Bar Basso.
“This is a must!” DeGiorgio exclaims about sipping a negroni sbagliato at Bar Basso, the old-school stalwart where it was invented in 1972. “Make sure you ask for the grande version, which is served in the epic bicchierone, a jumbo glass chalice whose aesthetic is just as regal as it is religious,” she says. During Fashion Week, you might even rub shoulders with designers, as this place is a hotspot among the fashion crowd.
Ride on a vintage tram.
A network of yellow, orange, and green trams has been crisscrossing the city for almost a century, and the 1928 trams are especially beautiful. “Last year, the trams started accepting contactless payment, a much-appreciated upgrade. There are no ticket vendor points at the stops, so now you can hop on without having to make a detour to an edicola or tabaccheria to buy one,” DeGiorgio notes.
Embrace café culture.
“There are so many cool places where you can have specialty coffee — not just the old-school coffee places that you think of when you think of Italy, but there are places you can go and have an Aeropress or a flat white with almond milk or oat milk and just sit there and talk and relax,” DeGiorgio says. One of her favorites (and mine too) is Pavé, which also makes great pastries, bread, and sandwiches. “When I can treat myself, Signor Lievito is one of my favorite places in Milan for their pastries, like the cinnamon rolls and chocolate babka,” Ferragamo adds.
Explore Brera.
Part of the centro storico just north of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and Teatro alla Scala, the Brera neighborhood is one of Milan’s most elegant. “The Brera Botanical Garden is a hidden and fascinating place, especially when the wisteria is in bloom,” says Ferragamo. Another must-visit spot in the neighborhood is the Pinacoteca di Brera, an art museum containing masterpieces by Raphael, Bellini, and Caravaggio.
Visit the Fondazione Prada.
DeGiorgio calls this art foundation by the Prada fashion dynasty unforgettable, saying, “It blows me away every time.” The permanent collection includes an installation by Robert Gober and Louise Bourgeois, while rotating exhibits might feature Miranda July or Pino Pascali. “The Wes Anderson-designed Bar Luce is worth dropping into, even if only for a gelato or coffee, just to see it,” DeGiorgio adds.
Have an aperitivo at a rooftop bar.
“When the weather is nice, Hotel Viu terrace offers one of the best views of Milan, making it perfect for a lovely date,” Ferragamo says. DeGiorgio’s favorite? Ceresio 7, a vintage-chic rooftop pool bar and restaurant overlooking Porta Garibaldi. She also likes the Bamboo Bar at the Armani Hotel, which is enclosed, making it the ideal place to enjoy cocktails and views in the colder months.
Shop for a unique souvenir.
“To furnish my home, I love design stores that offer a curated and varied selection, from furniture to stationery items. In Milan, I recommend Cargo and Design Republic, perfect for finding a special gift,” Ferragamo says. Personally, I love the whimsical designs at Milanese heritage brand Fornasetti, which has a boutique on Corso Venezia.
Explore the local markets.
“One of the most authentic experiences you can have in Milan is exploring the local markets. For example, I often visit the Isola neighborhood market on weekends,” Sole says. The Mercato Comunale Isola was renovated in 2022 and has stalls from food vendors, including gelato by a Michelin-starred chef. There’s also a location of the Mercato Centrale, the gourmet food hall with locations in Rome, Florence, and Turin.
Check into a swanky hotel.
The best hotels in Milan include luxe brands like Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental, Park Hyatt, and Bulgari, and DeGiorgio lauds their excellent cocktail programs. “Guglielmo Miriello, one of the city’s most esteemed beverage professionals, oversees drinks at the Mandarin Oriental; the 1960s-inspired Rumore opened at the Portrait late last year; and the Bulgari hotel’s bar manager, Patrick Greco, is shaking up some stellar libations,” she notes.
Take a leisurely stroll in the Parco Sempione.
Once the gardens and grounds of the Castello Sforzesco, the Parco Sempione was opened to the public in the late 1800s and is still considered the city’s green lung. “The park is most crowded in the spots closest to Castello Sforzesco, but the hordes thin out the further you venture into this splendid urban oasis,” DeGiorgio says. “You can cut through there if you plan to hit up the Triennale, or stroll the entire park to arrive at the Arco della Pace in Piazza Sempione.”
Get cultured at the Biblioteca Ambrosiana.
DeGiorgio recommends a visit to the 17th-century Biblioteca Ambrosiana, one of the earliest libraries to give access to anyone who could read and write. The painting gallery was added in 1618 with works from the collection of Cardinal Federico Borromeo, who inaugurated the library in 1609. “The pinacoteca’s highlights include the cartoon of Raphael’s School of Athens (sans Michelangelo) and a Caravaggio painting, but the headliner is da Vinci’s “Codex Atlanticus,” a tome of his drawings and writings that’s on display.
Experience the nightlife in the Navigli.
The canal-filled Navigli neighborhood has become a nightlife hotspot, so DeGiorgio warns that the quality here can be hit or miss. “Places you’ll never go wrong both along the Naviglio Grande and within its vicinity are Vinoir, a natural wine bar, Rita & Cocktails, MAG Cafe and its offshoot MAG La Pusterla, Iter, Backdoor43, and Carico.”